Kumamoto Castle

In the vicinity of the city center’s main shopping avenues, Kamitori and Shimotori, and just in front of the city hall, whose 14th floor offers a view on its large estate, Kumamoto Castle 🏯 is a good illustration of Japanese post 📮-modernism. Its visits remains a must-see in the city, despite the damages of the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes that are still visible.

Both a monumental domain and a sakura spot

Made of several dozens of fortified constructions, including many yagura turrets, mon gates, high fortification walls and a 2-story tenshu keep, Kumamoto Castle is one of the most complete and majestic fortified sites to visit in Japan, as can be Himeji Castle for example.

The grounds is 1,6km long from east to west and 1,2km north to south. It is surrounded by several green areas and cherry trees and is the ideal place to celebrate hanami in Kumamoto, so that it becomes one of the most popular castles in Japan from the end of March to early April, during the sakura 🌸 blossom season. A few plum trees also bloom in March.

At night, the castle on the hill is fully illuminated to highlight its beautiful black wood constructions.

10 years after the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes

In 2016, Kumamoto Castle was severely damaged by the earthquakes of April 14 and 16, and their aftershocks, some of which having reached a 7,3 magnitude. In 2017, Kumamoto city launched a restoration program envisioning the end of the repair works by 2037.

However, a new study published in late November 2022 gave another estimate: the full reopening cannot be reached before 2052, that is to say 15 years later! Such a delay is due, among other things, to the requirement to determine the most suitable reconstruction method for the fortified walls.

In the meantime, the site has been gradually reopening as the renovation progress, and Kumamoto Castle’s visit is worth it again since June 2021 with the reopening of the main keep Tenshukaku. Its structure has been reinforced and the inside exhibition themed on the castle’s history has been renewed and modernized. The uppermost floor, at about 30 meters high, is used as an observation deck, allowing to oversee:

• The works in progress, with the restricted areas and constructions under scaffolding;
• The new elevated walkway, that allows visitors to explore the enclosure from above as the former walking path at the foot of the fortified walls remains off-limit;
• And the backdrop of the city’s buildings surrounded by mountains.

From the castle’s grounds south entrance, the new elevated walkway leads to the esplanade before the main keep. Several viewpoints on the buildings and the fortified walls that haven’t been repaired yet show how impressive the damages of 2016 earthquakes are, especially the cracks on the walls and crumbling stone walls.

We recommend ending the tour of Kumamoto Castle at Sakura-no-baba Josaien, a touristic complex displaying an Edo period architectural style, with local Japanese cuisine restaurants as well as omiyage shops, to purchase souvenirs sporting the image of Higomaru, the castle’s mascot, or the famous bear Kumamon, the city’s representative.

The Wakuwaku-za museum also offers a nice complement on Kumamoto’s history, with enough interactivity to allow an interesting visit for children as well. At the site’s central plaza, comedians perform historical pieces, bringing back to life historical figures such as daimyo lords and samurai warriors, who have a major role in the castle’s history.

Over 400 years of tumultuous history

Kumamoto Castle’s first fortifications were built in the second half of the 15th century, and the fortress developed between the end of the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1558 - 1600) and the early days of the Edo period (1603 – 1868). The main tower building was completed in 1600, then gifted to Kato Kiyomasa (1562 - 1611) who became the lord of Higo province after the Battle of Sekigahara. He decided to add a smaller tower and a well in 1607, and lastly the Honmaru Goten palace in 1610. At the time of his death in 1611, his son Tadahiro was too young and unable to fight for keeping the domain which was finally be transferred to the Hosokawa clan in 1632.

Another period of sudden unrest marked the Meiji Restoration, with the abolition of the domains system that had the Higo province become a prefecture in 1871. While the Hosokawa lost their daimyo status, they were elevated to a nobility rank, and first continued to rule as governors. As political unrest continued in Japan, Kumamoto Castle was besieged during the Satsuma Rebellion (1877) and many of its constructions, including the keep, were burnt down.

The reconstruction began only from 1960, starting by the keep. Then it was the castle itself between 1998 and 2008. A new reconstruction project was unveiled in 2017 in the wake of 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, that should be completed around 2052. Among the most remarkable buildings currently undergoing renovation are: Honmaru palace and Uto turret, that are slated to reopen in 2032 and the Sukiyamaru hall, whose completion is expected for 2042.