The Green Seaside South to Tokyo
Miura Peninsula is in the south of Yokohama, in Kanagawa prefecture. The arm of land is bordered by Tokyo Bay on the east and by Sagami Bay on its western side. Located less than a two-hour train ride from the Japanese capital, the peninsula offers beautiful walks along its jagged and still wild coastline. Miura’s pleasant sceneries of countryside by the sea were happily forsaken by mass tourism.
Less popular than the neighboring Izu Peninsula, Miura Peninsula is also smaller: it spans over a 24-kilometer length and 14 kilometers on its largest width. The rocky headland extending into the Pacific Ocean is located between two great touristic hubs: Tokyo-Yokohama in the east and the beautiful city of Kamakura and the neighboring Enoshima island in the west.
Miura Peninsula’s center is constituted of small mountain ranges, and four cities along its coastline share this large piece of land which is not densely urbanized. On the contrary, its old-fashioned and rural atmosphere offers an enjoyable contrast with the surrounding large cities. The fresh sea air is blowing in landscapes colored in blue and green. The western coast facing Shonan area is famous for its beautiful sunsets in winter, with views on Enoshima and Mount Fuji 🗻.
Many inhabitants of the megalopolis choose Miura to relax and enjoy nature on the weekend. There are also many sushi 🍣 and sashimi restaurants in the area, where the specialty is maguro fat tuna meat, especially in Misaki port at the southern end of the peninsula.
Zushi and Hayama seaside resorts
The western side of the peninsula is a popular destination for Tokyo inhabitants in summer. In Zushi and Hayama cities, people come to enjoy the beach 🏖, swimming and open air barbecue parties. The atmosphere is laid-back and friendly.
Zushi is the easiest to reach, thanks to a direct train 🚅 from the capital. Continuing south, Hayama has its seaside arranged for swimming in summer and a marina. We recommend walking in its narrow streets bordered by beautiful houses facing the sea, as well as discovering its cultural attractions, more numerous than in Zushi.
Yokosuka, the large military city
Yokosuka spreads on the central part of the peninsula and is its largest city. It is home to an important navy base run conjointly by the U. S. and the Japanese Navy. The military port and its neighboring streets provide a very specific ambiance with a surprising mix of Japanese and American cultures, that contrast with a traditional sightseeing surrounding in the archipelago.
Miura, the fishermen’s village
The southern end of the peninsula is the most isolated. It shelters Miura, a small rural town, where farmers and fishermen live a simple life to the rhythm of the seasons. Inhabitants are usually friendly with tourists and they like meeting new people.
The best of Miura in a few addresses
Most of the activities available in Miura are outdoor, so a good weather is necessary to enjoy the visit. We have put together a short list of places to visit on a sunny day, in winter as well as in summer:
- Zushi downtown (逗子): between the station and the beach, it offers a pleasant exploration far from the tourists crowds.
- Morito-daimyojin (森戸大明神) shrine: on Hayama’s seaside and almost directly on the beach, the small, cute pavilion reminds of Okinawa’s dream landscapes.
- Ajisai Park (あじさい公園): on the heights of Hayama, the blue hydrangea blooming in June enhance the panoramic view on the coastline.
- Verny Park (ヴェルニー公園) in Yokosuka: is famous for its rose garden and offers a vantage point on the battleships anchored in the port. Nearby, the unusual shopping street Dobuita Street (どぶ板通り) was used as a setting for the video game Shenmue.
- Kannonzaki Park (県立観音崎公園): on the heights of Yokosuka, it is a nice walk throughout its forestry hills up to its lighthouse. Nearby, the Yokosuka Museum of Art (横須賀美術館) displays Meiji era (1868-1912) and contemporary Japanese artworks.
- Farmers Market Sukanagosso (すかなごっそ): in Yokosuka as well, this food market is open a few days a week and proceeds to direct sell delicious local products.
- Misaki Port (三崎漁港): in Miura, is renowned for its fish market that takes place every morning. We recommend having lunch in one of its restaurants specialized in maguro sushi, with fat red tuna.
- Jogashima Island (城ヶ島): at Miura’s southernmost end, is a quiet small island, accessible by car thanks to a bridge. In Kanagawa Kenritsu Jogashima Park (神奈川県立城ヶ島公園), a walk is arranged along the beautiful indented coastline.
- Mahoroba onsen ♨️ in Mahoroba Minds hotel (マホロバマインズ三浦): in Miura, this facility combines a small aquatic park, a heated pool and an authentic onsen hot spring.
- Koajiro no Mori (小網代の森): in Miura, the 70-hectare natural reserve is committed to ecotourism and offers walking trails to discover the local flora and fauna.
Several one-day hikes are also possible, such as:
- Mount Ogusu (大楠山) climbing, a 250-meter high mountain in the center of the peninsula,
- Miura Alps, starting from Zushi and ending in Tsukayama Park in Yokosuka,
- Miura Reef Route, along the coastline at the southernmost end of the peninsula.
How to travel in Miura peninsula?
The north of the peninsula is easily reachable by train from Tokyo or Yokohama. The Shonan-Shinjuku and Yokosuka JR lines have direct trains to Zushi. Yokosuka downtown and military port are connected to the train network by the Yokosuka JR line and the Keikyu line. With the Keikyu line from Shinagawa or Yokohama, it is possible to reach Misaki-guchi station, at the entrance of Miura village.
The car 🚙 is recommended to ride along the coast until south or to visit the eastern and western sides of Miura in one go. A bus network also serves the places that are difficult to access by train, but their use requires to stay longer in the area.
The destination is anyway ideal for a relaxing time and a slower visit pace. If you want to stay for the night, several ryokan traditional inns and hotel 🏨 complexes are located on the western seaside, with the highlight of viewing the sunset on Sagami Bay. A few camping grounds are also available in the peninsula, such as Nojima park’s Barbecue and Campsite (横浜市野島公園 バーベキュー・キャンプ場) or The Galaxy Express Nahama (ザ・ギャラクシー・エキスプレス・ナハマ), where bungalows are available to rent.
Tourists usually overlook Miura peninsula as they prefer sightseeing in Tokyo and Kamakura. With no remarkable historical heritage, this destination offers the discovery of a simpler and more authentic Japan, with wild landscapes and the countryside by the sea.